Snapshot Saturday: Cavern Crazy

Callao Cave in Tuguegarao, Cagayan.
Spelunking wasn't our primary objective, though we obviously did a little. We were there to do our pre-nuptial photo shoot. A chapel inside a cave's the perfect eerie-romantic backdrop (not in this photo however). Kinda like the vibe of Paco Park, a former cemetery during Spanish colonial period, where our wedding was held.

Backpacking Borneo: Niah Caves

We arranged a tour with Highlands, our accommodation-cum-travel agent for a hefty RM60 each. We were picked up by our guide, a Miri local who speaks fluent English with an Aussie accent at exactly 9:00 AM. There were five of us: Shervin, me, Keran (Scottish), Toby (British) and his French girlfriend.


Niah National Park is located in Batu Niah (literally "Niah Cave" in Bahasa Melayu), a quaint Sarawak town, 13km west of the highway between Miri and Bintulu. To get there, you can take Syarikat Bas Suria from the Miri Bus Station. Travel time, 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours. Less than 1 hour 30 minutes if you hire a taxi.

A permit is needed to visit the Niah Caves, it is issued at the Niah National Park Headquarters for RM10 (opening hours 8AM-5PM).

From the headquarters, the caves are across the river (RM1 for boat ride) and then a further 3km along a wooden boardwalk.

It is an interesting one hour hike, as you are guaranteed to see various species of insects, slugs and caterpillars on the handrail along the way. Also check out the gigantic trees!


The first of the 'chambers' is the Trader's Cave. Before the area became a national park in 1975, bird nest traders once inhabited this cave. The original structure of their roofless huts are still intact.


Up the stairs on the other end of the chamber, a trail leads to the west entrance of Great Cave.


A fenced area to the left, facing the cave, is where archaeologists have found evidence that early humans lived here some 40,000 years ago (oldest recorded human settlement in east Malaysia). The Great Cave is one of the largest caves in the world.
To the rear of the Great Cave, flights of wooden stairs take you to the Padang or Large Chamber. Sunbeams from the holes of the cave's ceiling illuminate your path as you go pick which direction to take (a la Choose Your Own Adventure). One boardwalk will lead you to the Moon Cave, after passing through a pitch dark tunnel.

You may direct your torchlight to the stalactites as you walk, but don't be too caught up marvelling. Shervin kept swinging his flashlight left to right unaware that the boardwalk makes a sharp left. I told him to halt, just in time he was right at the edge.

We walked in the dark for more than half an hour. It was pretty creepy. I was relieved when we reached another exit.

At the covered shed where the other three were waiting, we found another trail leading to the Painted Cave. We also saw a woman in heels with a local guide emerging from the Moon Cave. Toby called it 'fashion caving'.


We were disappointed to see a deteriorating cave painting. Understandable though as these drawings were discovered back in 1958 by Barbara Harrisson. The motifs are mainly of human figures and boats, that could possibly be the burial rites documented by the early dwellers as several 'boat coffins' were found nearby.


We didn't take much time in the last cave. We told our driver we'll be back by 2:00 PM at the park headquarters. It drizzled for a few minutes, which was perfect for it wasn't too hot to hike back.

We took tons of photos once more of unknown insects on the handrails while we trekked. Toby noticed two caterpillars who seemed to be (slowly) racing. He said, "I bet five bucks on that sprinter". Keran reminded, "Oh, remember no gambling?". We all laughed (except the French chick who's not good in English)

Read the park regulations at the headquarters, you'll know what I mean.

[This blog is part of the South East Asia in Six Weeks series which took place May-June 2009. Price of goods, transportation and so forth may already be different.]

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Callao Cave: 12-hour Trip, 2-hour Spelunking

After celebrating my birthday in Sagada last September 2nd, we traveled to Tuguegarao a couple of days after. My sister was hesitant because she received an SMS from our mom saying there's a typhoon in the region.

I insisted on pushing through and said, "We're already in north Luzon, it can't be that far from here". And man was I so wrong! I assumed it's only six hours away since a Banaue local told me so. Turned out, it's double that. The travel period was as long as the trip from Manila to Tuguegarao.

Pre-nup photo my sister took in Callao Cave.
We left Sagada around 6:30AM, on board a Bontoc-bound jeep (P40). After an hour, we were dropped off a station where buses to Banaue depart. Our bus' route goes all the way to Santiago, Isabela for only P200. We were told by the conductor that there are frequent trips from Roxas, Isabela to Tuguegarao, so we asked him to drop us off where we can catch the next bus.

We arrived in Roxas at 4:00PM and was able to get on a bus that was about to leave for Tuguegarao (P120). After two more hours, we reached our destination. The bus' conductor recommended Victoria Lodge, conveniently located near Victory Liner (too bad we will not be going straight to Manila after) and beside Brickstone Mall.

Since it was already 6:00PM, we scheduled Callao Cave the next day, early morning. Victoria Lodge charged us P550 for an air-conditioned (fan room not available that time) double room plus P100 for an extra bed. All three off us plopped on our beds, uber exhausted from a twelve-hour trip. However, before calling it a day, we went to sentro to look for an internet shop and eat dinner at a cheap carinderia.

The next day started at 6:00AM. I stressed that we should be finished with spelunking by 11:00AM, so we'd have time to pack our bags after and prepare for check out. Tricycle to riverside is P50 (I have a feeling it could have been cheaper if only we weren't with a foreign tourist). This is where you can get another tricycle to Callao Cave. You will transact with the 'dispatcher', because the trike drivers' names are queued up on his list. Organized, and fair. It also saves tourists from being harassed. Fare is P490 roundtrip. Trike driver will wait for you or come back at an agreed time. Riding the jeep is cheaper, but it may take ages before it's filled up - or it may not be filled up at all! Hence, no trip. Hiring a jeep is advisable for big groups.

Callao Cave is situated in the Municipality of Penablanca, about 30 minutes from Tuguegarao City. There are two ways to get there. You can drive directly to the entrance of the park or cross the river via boat. Option one is available to tourists with private cars, the latter, for those who don't. The trike dropped us off along Pinacanauan River.


Boat is P10 each person, one way. The ticket booth attendant of the park boarded the same boat, we got there just in time for the opening. Admission fee is P20.

Chapel in the first chamber.
Natural crevices let light rays seep into the caves.
We stayed in the cave for about an hour. Sadly, we needed to leave early so we could check-out at 12 noon and catch the soonest trip to Nueva Ecija then Pangasinan then finally Tarlac in time for my father's bithday.

Make sure you read up on the information printed on a tarpaulin just upon entrance to the cave regarding its archaeological exploration.

Buses from Manila to Tugugegarao:
Baliwag
Florida
Victory Liner
Price P650 up

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Kwebang Lampas

Armed with P1,500 each, the five of us (Jules, Oliver, Tristan, Erwin and I) met up at Wendy's Buendia about quarter to one. The original 3am meeting based on the itinerary was changed to 12 noon since Oliver will be getting off work at 7am, and I'll be done with a badminton match at 11.

We left the Lucena Lines Buendia terminal at 1:30pm. The bus ride took 4 hours. P216 will take you until the Lucena terminal where jeeps to neighboring towns are queued up. Jeep to Pagbilao costs P13 to its public market, about half an hour ride. I asked the driver regarding jeeps heading to the coast of Kwebang Lampas and he said we already missed the last trip. I kind of expected it to happen, and so the next task was to find a place where the group can spend the night.


After we glutted over sweet and sour fish, chicken, rice and noodles, we set off to get another jeep to go back to the highway to find Greenview Motel. This motel was suggested by the vendor where we bought the fried chicken from. The building does not have a signboard bearing its name and we mistakenly walked towards its rear entrance which was closed, and chanced upon a karaoke joint beside it. I told everyone we'd have to sing karaoke once settled.

Overnight rate for a fan room is P350 for two people, and an additional P150 for another person. We set-up the skimboard-cum-table and drank my birthday wine. Thereafter, we agreed to go back to the karaoke place which appeared to be a fave hang-out for trike drivers who'd enter their numbers without browsing through the song book.

We left the bar around 10pm, the place was starting to get rowdy with the waitresses all dressed in mini skirts and dresses. Jules and I did some sentimental chitchat before hitting the sack at the stroke of midnight. Wake-up call was supposedly 5am but I already knocked a quarter before because I knew the boys would need more time to jump-start. No more morning pleasantries, just "quick take a shower!". We were lucky to get a jeep early and arrived at the station for Polo bound jeeps at 6am. First trip was to depart at 7, so we had enough time to eat breakfast and search for Jules' Stik-O.

Fare is P32 each, and we were dropped off at the end point of that 45-minute ride, the quaint town of Iba, Polo. We walked mindlessly and didn't know where to go next when I noticed the towering power plant, which I've read should serve as the landmark.


We saw a PNP station and asked the guy at the desk where Kwebang Lampas is, and said he's not a local and asked someone else too for us. He directed us to follow a path until the coast, which should just be a kilometer trek. The trail's pretty easy to figure out.


Once you reach a fenced private property along the coast, that should be it. No welcome sign whatsoever. You will be greeted by a slew of starved dogs and an old man who will ask for P35 each. After a few steps from the gate, the beautiful stretch of white sand and the infamous cave appeared on the periphery. I looked up, saw the soft glowing nimbus of the sun and rushed to change into my suit.


After almost five hours of beaching, we lazily packed our bags. We wanted to extend, but clearly can't as we all got matters to take care of back in Manila. Since we weren't completely satisfied, we planned for a road trip next time. Only, we're keeping our fingers crossed all of us can join again. I know for a fact I may not be able to, not anytime soon.

For people who wish to camp by the way, it's not possible. The family who owns the property does not allow it. And there's no running water, so bring enough for cooking and washing dishes after. Bring extra food too, please help feed the dogs.

Update Jan. 6 2010: Huts are now charged since the place has gained popularity. I still have to verify the amount, but should only be P300-P500.

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Sagada Adventure Packages

After the stroke of midnight, second of September, Shervin and Gabe greeted me a 'happy birthday'. We were aboard Autobus, and we were traversing Nueva Ecija, bound for Banaue. Prior the trip, I couldn't choose between Sagada and Tuguegarao. If I choose sagada, it's going to be my seventh time there, though I've never celebrated my birthday in Mt. Province yet. And I have never set foot on Cagayan, so it was a tough call. My final decision? Go to Sagada, then to Tuguegarao.


I spent half of my birthday on the road. We were even stranded for a few minutes (Bontoc-Sagada) after a part of the mountain was deliberately blasted to "prevent a landslide". We watched a bulldozer clear the rubble, while drinking our Infinit Cocktail (we bought from Ministop across Autobus' Manila station, and hoped to drink at a stopover just after midnight - which obviously did not happen).

I will not bore you any more of what happened to us after that, instead, I will provide some new information I have gathered from Sagada's Municipal Hall. I do not know when they implemented these tour packages, but they sure weren't present the last time I visited.

Please take note that the following bits of information were copied off a brochure given away by Sagada's Municipality. I thought, knowing these beforehand can help tourists come up with an itinerary (and appropriate budget) before heading here especially those with limited time, i.e. weekend travelers:


Southern Sagada:
Cave Connection (4hours)
Sugong Hanging Coffins viewpoint
Lumiang Burial Cave
Kapay-aw Rice Terraces viewpoint
P800 for 1/2pax
Optional Ride: +P400


Southern Sagada Package 2:
Short Course Caving (2hours)
Sugong Hanging Coffins viewpoint
Lumiang Burial Cave
Kapay-aw Rice Terraces viewpoint
Sumaging Cave
P500 for a group up to 4pax
Optional Ride: +P350



Central Sagada:
Eco-Cultural Tour
Echo Valley hanging coffins
Underground River entrance
Bokong (Small Falls)
P400 for a group of up to 10pax

Northern Sagada:
Bomod-ok
Big Falls
Fidelisan Rice Terraces
Northern Sagada Villages
P600 for a group of up to 10pax
Optional Ride: +650

Eastern Sagada:
Lamagan/Marlboro Country
Limestone Formations
Wild Horses
P600 for a group of up to 10pax

Western Sagada:
Ampacao
Mountain Trek
Demang Community
P600 for a group of up to 10 pax

Eastern Sagada (start at 4:30am):
Kiltepan
Sunrise View
Rice Terraces
P450 for a group of up to 10pax

Western Sagada (start at 4:30pm):
Lake Danum
Sunset View
Pottery Shop
P450 for a group of up to 10pax

"Choose your own adventure", the brochure's header says. And when you do, please take note of a few reminders:

*Wear a comfy shirt, and shorts (denims will give you a hard time!).
*Be ready to get wet in Sumaging! Waterproof your gadgets, don't depend on your guide to carry all your stuff for you.
*Though guides bring lamps for caving, bringing your own headlamps and flashlights will help illuminate the pitch dark chambers and may help prevent accidents.
*Be courteous, greet locals that you meet along the way.
*The municipality's packages are on a fixed price. Do not haggle anymore, the money that we pay them will be a big help to the locals.
*If you're traveling alone, or in a small group and you think you can't afford a certain package, inform the municipal's office so they can set you up with another group. It's also a good idea to ask fellow tourists from your hostel, they might be up for the same adventure!
*Respect the implemented curfew. Although tourists aren't really prohibited from walking around town in the evening, don't make any unnecessary loud noises - like shouting to call someone's attention (err, I can't state any other example, but I guess you know what this reminder means!).
*Make friends with locals! It's what cultural exchange is all about.

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