2013 Year-Ender: When Travel Turned Into A Black Hole

And I got sucked in.

In 2012, we were armed with all sorts of excuses: Extended honeymoon stage. A break from the mundane. Discounted airfares for tots. "Still saving up for a house (and/or still haven't decided where to buy)". Backpacking while young. Living in the now... The list went on and echoed through the beginning of 2013. 2012, no doubt was a wild child.

2013 on the other hand started out quite prim, then morphed into some bad arse that broke out of its cage named 'settling down'. The call of elsewhere was much too strong and we ran free. Directionless, that we eventually found ourselves in a black hole that is long termish travel (again).

I could make up a bunch of reasons why we're postponing domesticity. But for today I'll use portraits and landscapes to back me up.

Eriyadu Island Resort, North Male Atoll, Maldives.
1. Australia

Clockwise from top left: 1. Bro-in-law's beautiful wedding in Curzon Hall, a sandstone manor built in the 1890s. 2. Bondi Beach, finally, after so many New South Wales visits. 3. Luna's third birthday at ze Persian in-laws' house. 4. Selfeet with  my Bensimon sneakers, Sydney Harbour Bridge.

2. Philippines

Clockwise from top left: 1. Thunderbird Poro Point, San Fernando, La Union for the hubby's birthday. 2. T'nalak Festival, South Cotabato. 3. Tattooed by one of the (there's a protégé) last mambabatoks in Kalinga. 4. Hapao Rice Terraces trek, Ifugao.  

3. Myanmar

Clockwise from top left: 1. Consulting a map at Yangon International Airport (photo by Ron of fliptravels.com). 2. Luna vs. angry birds. Yangon city center walking tour (photo by Ron). 3. Sunrise at Old Bagan. 4. Bare feet and templed-out (photo also by Ron).  

4. Singapore

Clockwise from top left: 1. We love Hotel Re! Nope, not a sponsored post. 2. Catching up with sis. 3. Supertrees Grove. 4. Marina Bay Sands.

5. Laos

Clockwise from top left: 1. Wat Si Saket, Vientiane. 2. Vang Vieng. Party central no more. 3. B-52 bomb crater in Xiangkhouang Province. 4. The mysterious Plain of Jars, also in Xiangkhouang Province.
6. Turkey

Clockwise from top left: 1. Blue Mosque, Istanbul. 2. Goreme Open Air Museum, Cappadocia. 3. Oldest temple in the world, Gobekli Tepe (older than the wheel, they say). 4. Pamukkale or "Cotton Castle". Calcite-covered mountain in Denizli Province.

7.  Armenia

Clockwise from top left: 1. One of our afternoon walks around Armenia's capital, Yerevan. 2. Khor Virap, an Armenian Apostolic Church monastery in Ararat valley. 3. UNESCO World Heritage Site Monastery of Geghard, partially carved out of a mountain. 4. The Armenian Genocide Museum.

8. Georgia (Yes, it's a country!)

Clockwise from top left: 1. Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Georgian Orthodox cathedral, Mtskheta. 2. Crossing the border by foot to Azerbaijan for Davit Gareji Monastery. 3. Ancient rock-hewn town Uplistsikhe, Eastern Georgia. 4. Former Soviet leader Joseph Stalin's house in Gori.

9. Nepal

Clockwise from top left 1. Climbing Fasidega Temple, Bhaktapur Durbar Square. 2. Luna sits in a kindergarten class/day care center for two days. 3. View of Himalayan peaks from our room's balcony in Nagarkot. 4. UNESCO World Heritage Site Boudhanath, Kathmandu.  

10. Malaysia

Clockwise from top left 1. Hotel Puri, a Peranakan ancestral home housed in a gorgeous structure built in the 1800s. 2. Nyonya Laksa. 3. Christ Church, 18th century Anglican church. One of Melaka's well-known landmarks. 4. Walking tour around UNESCO World Heritage Site Melaka.

12. Maldives

 

Clockwise from top left 1. Artificial Hulhumale Island. 2. A Maldivian 'bench'. 3. Eriyadu Island Resort. 4. Chili patties. Or something like that.      If your black hole is this bewitching, will you try to crawl out of it?     

 

This year-ender post is my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for December 2013 with the theme “The Pinoy Travel Bloggers Closing the Curtains on 2013: Love, Learn and Living”, hosted by Brenna Bustamante of The Philippine Travelogue.




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Border Crossing: Overland By Bus/Marshrutka From Tbilisi, Georgia To Yerevan, Armenia

The driver slammed his cab's boot shut, as if to seal our two-week Georgia affair tight. He drove without a word. We were at the finish line of one Caucasus journey, and were about to begin afresh in a neighboring country. Yet another border cross my passport with a detached cover had to survive.

I was concerned. Though not as worried as finding out how much the driver's ten-minute wait would cost us. We only had a few lari left.

Sign says "Yerevan". The capital and largest city of Armenia.  

Ortachala Bus Station

 

Our short morning weekend cruise to Ortachala bus station, about two to three kilometers away, was a parade of emotions. It's a pain to depart a city filled with magnificent, decrepit buildings that are a mishmash of Georgian, European, Russian and Byzantine architectural styles. But at the same time we're on tenterhooks to trample on another land we know so little of.

The driver dropped us off right by where the marshrutka (a form of public transportation similar to a route share taxi) for Yerevan was parked. Although he overcharged us, I say five dollars is a fair price for convenience.

Inside a marshrutka. Cozy, with decent leg room.

We were lucky to snag the last seats (fare's about $20). I assumed it was the second trip of the day for I read somewhere that buses for Yerevan depart Tbilisi every hour, from 7:00 AM to noon. There's no schedule posted at the station, at least none that's written in the English alphabet (Georgia has their own unique alphabet). It was wise that we referred to the one we found online.

Georgia-Armenia Border

We arrived at the border past ten and found two equally chaotic lines (left our luggage in the marshrutka). It seemed queuing's not a norm on this part of the world. Our turn took forever. And because I did not (and was not asked to) pay for visa on arrival when we entered the country via Tbilisi Airport, the immigration officer spent a long time inspecting my battered passport and conversing with a colleague. Perhaps they were discussing whether I should be charged or not.

Georgian border control.

Fortunately, my passport was stamped without me being questioned. We quickly exited the building and crossed a bridge on foot to the Armenian border control. I was scared to look back.

Armenia e-Visa Application

How to apply for the e-Visa? We applied for an e-Visa through this website http://www.mfa.am/eVisa/ beforehand. Hubby simply filled out the online form. The price for a 21-day visa, single entry is $10 (120 days for $40) and can be paid by credit card. Visas are issued online within two business days and applicants are given a link to check the status.

It's advisable that visitors present a printed electronic visa, but we got through even just by showing photos of ours in a digital camera. e-Visa holders will be able to enter Armenia via Zvartnots International Airport, Gyumri Airport, Ayrum Railway Station, and the Bagratashen, Gogavan, Bavra and Megri land borders.

Visitors eligible for visa on arrival may apply at the border. It's a no sweat process of filling out a short form and paying. At the time of our travel, only Armenian dram was accepted. There's a currency exchange service but expect the rate to be bad.

Crossing a bridge on foot to the Armenian border control.  

Border To Yerevan

Unlike the uneventful Tbilisi-border drive (except for that moment when we spotted a turtle crossing the road which we avoided and almost got us into an accident) the border-Yerevan drive made a spectacular first impression, thanks to the dramatic Mount Ararat backdrop. It provided that much needed consolation.

The ride terminated at Yerevan Central Station. One cab driver agreed to accept our leftover Georgian lari and took us to Tashir Pizza where we were meeting up with an AirBnb host, whose house will be our Armenian home for one week.

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Tbilisi, The City That Loves You (Or So The Slogan Says)

Tough love, perhaps? Let me take you back to the start.

One balmy Georgian morning, my elbow was perched on the edge of an immigration counter in Tbilisi International Airport. My foot, tapping in impatience. I couldn't read the officer's face.

"Shall I transfer to the visa on arrival counter?", I whispered to the hubby. "I think I need to pay."

"Huh?", was his only response. He was red-eyed, and probably on a sleepwalk.

Tbilisi's Freedom Square.  

We just flew in, sleep deprived, from Turkey where we traveled for half a month. After tiptoeing our way around a gang of uniform-clad, gigantic South African football players at the aerobridge, we hustled for a short immigration line. It didn't take long before our turn. The officer, however, took ages scrutinizing my beaten passport. She also asked long questions from the officer beside her cube.

"I probably need to pay for the visa. Where are our dollars?", I began to worry.

"Huh?!"

  Have you been? Did you feel the love?  

I started digging in hubby's backpack when I heard the glorious sound of stamping action. Our passports were handed back to us without a word. Without the slightest smile. Oh that standard immigration welcome. We left the officer a muffled 'thanks' and made our way to the luggage belt where we were once again dwarfed by football players shuttling to and fro, searching for their sponsored bags that all look the same.

Luna and I stood far from the giants, thinking we'll be safe from being crushed while hubby fetched our bags. Then came a ground staff who angrily shooed us away because he wanted to push a bunch of airport trolleys along our path. Mind you, it's one spacious hall. I swiftly scooped our daughter Luna and jumped out of the way.

Then my eyes landed on the sign: 'Tbilisi. The city that loves you.'... Wow.

Rock n' roll grandpa. Our airport pickup service.  

Before I could even toss my head back and laugh out loud at the irony, hubby lazily gestured for the exit. He finally got all our stuff.

The guesthouse that we booked is an unpopular one. We chose it because of its location (a mere five minutes' walk from Freedom Square), and more importantly, its cheap rate that is a rarity in the capital. Based on a review we read online, there's no sign outside the building which makes it tricky to find (makes it seem dodgy too). So we requested the guesthouse owner to arrange a pickup for us. We were charged €12.

St. George Statue, Freedom Square, Tbilisi. A five-minute walk from our guesthouse.  

We found the driver at the end of the fenced lane outside the arrivals area. He was holding a sign that says 'Solo Lucky Hostel'. It didn't indicate a guest's name. The man who seemed to have a hunched back, bore the saddest expression I've seen in a while. I approached him and asked the dumbest question I asked in a while, "Solo Lucky?". Now ain't that a special kind of stupid?

His face mildly lit up.

After a brief stop at the ATM machine, he escorted us to the parking lot.

Old, beautiful buildings surround Freedom Square but not all or well-preserved.

  The car's as old as the classic rock tunes in the cassette (yes you read that right, cassette) that was playing, but it worked mighty fine. Approaching the city center, the driver pointed out places of interest and tried to describe each with his limited English words.

Even with a few jams in the business district, we got to the guesthouse in half an hour. The owner's daughter, Natalie, was waiting for us on the street. She assisted us in taking our luggage up the few steps to our room. Our room's an old living area on the first level of an apartment and it's ridiculously spacious. There's a fridge, a water heater, a dining table, and a couch. Nothing short of perfect.

Georgian omelette, our first meal in the country.   "Did you eat breakfast?", Natalie's English was pretty good. "There's a restaurant next door and the owners are our friends."

She came along to In Vino Veritas — obviously a watering hole — to translate our orders. The owners didn't speak a single English word. And apparently, didn't know how smile too. Or were they having a bad morn? It's a bit of a disappointment when prior your visit you read about the Georgians' "legendary hospitality" and uhm, you don't experience what you expect.

Yes, we love you back, Tbilisi.  

Perhaps we just had encounters with the wrong people (like that grumpy supermarket lunch lady who refused to reheat our orders)? Or maybe, because I'm from the Philippines, the word hospitality conjures images of ubiquitous smiles and random waves from strangers. For a post-Soviet state, the word is most likely defined differently.

But hey, we're only talking about day one. Did this impression last?

Ah, a story for another day.

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2013 Thus Far: The Second Quarter

Half of the year's consumed, and we're trying to catch our breath.

Dawn of 2013 I foresaw myself filling a more domestic role in an American redneck town while the hubby turns into some NASA rockstar around this time of the year. The scheme fell apart and here we are, the same ol' wildling mum and dad, still raising a daughter in her Terrible Twos 'on the road'.

UNESCO World Heritage Site Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Nepal.  

We were hoping for a more unstrained second quarter, yet we ended up doggone hectic all throughout that we're more tired than when April began!

Here's what happened with Plan B, in chronological order. May contain random shiznit as ush.

Had to cut our Laos trip short for a flight back to the Philippines for my Turkey tourist visa application (which by the way was a royal pain in the arse). Sister flew from Singapore to Philippines the day after to surprise my mom with a quickie family reunion.

Hubby chose a nomadic life over the possibility of NASA stardom. Because he stayed in his current company, he was sent to California for business conferences and a baseball match (an annual outing of geeks) while Luna and I did some catching up with relatives in Tarlac. Hubby also visited Japan as a sidetrip on the way to the U.S.

Attended Choose Philippines' relaunch at MNL Boutique Hostel which turned into one helluva Pinoy Travel Bloggers' block party! Joined an ice cream eating contest which numbed my gums for days. My guwapo partner from Island Media Asia and I lost.

Celebrated Mother's Day with my mom and the rest of the fam over a somewhat simple lunch out.

Was in Manila for the Aerosmith concert! Snagged the last free ticket worth almost $500 off ze cousin.

After countless Singapore stopovers, we were able to finally see the Supertrees up close. And see the Merlion for the first time.

In Istanbul we managed to see the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace before flying to Denizli.

Panic at Pamukkale when hubby and I lost each other for a couple of hours in the ancient Byzantine city of Hierapolis. Hubby actually assumed I was kidnapped to the point that he was already collecting a group of suspects (at least in his mind). I, on the other hand, climbed the travertines the second time (not a walk in the park, I tell you) in my frantic search of my husband and child. I also requested the ticket officer to radio all park rangers — the same park rangers under the hubby's list of suspects — to look for them. 

Entered the house which is believed to be Virgin Mary's last residence. A structure that the Apostle John had built for her.

Walked around one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League, ancient Greek city (and later a Roman city) Ephesus. I gawked at the Library of Ephesus.

Hired a manual transmission car (Qué horror!) for a DIY tour in and around Capadoccia. It turned out cheaper than joining a group, plus we were able to see the sights that piqued our interests at an unhurried pace. We forgot to refuel the Renault before leaving it (due to an early flight) at the parking space across our cave hostel for the owner to pick up, but didn't get into trouble.

In Şanlıurfa, a province of Turkey that shares a border with Syria, we visited the following sites: The oldest temple in the world Göbekli Tepe (built before the invention of writing and the wheel), traditional mud brick "beehive" houses, and the cave where Prophet Abraham is believed to have been born.

On our last day in Istanbul we met up with Sabrina of Just One Way Ticket and found out that she indeed buys only one way tickets! It was the third day since the Turkish police attacked peaceful protesters at Gezi Park with tear gas and water cannons. Tsk.

Luna constructed her longest sentence to date, "Put that sugar in the tea!". Referring to a sugar cube (widely used in Turkey) which she wanted to put in her bubba's apple tea.

Flew about six times in two weeks just within Turkey because we were pressed with time.

In the country Georgia (yes it exists), a driver who barely spoke English and played/s 70s rock music in his cab took us to Jvari Monastery (6th century) and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (11th century). Two of the most important structures that showcase Georgian Christian architecture.

The same driver took us to Joseph Stalin's (former de facto leader of the Soviet Union) old house that's now surrounded by a park, then to rock-carved town Uplistsikhe (a name I can't pronounce until now) which is one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia.

Hiked a mountain to get to the other part of Georgia's Davit Gareji Monastery's cave complex that physically sits on Azerbaijan. Yes, we crossed the border without having our passports stamped! Luna hiked by herself almost halfway.

Rode on Tbilisi's newly rehabilitated funicular and chanced upon a Georgian folk dances presentation by kids at Mtatsminda Amusement Park. We felt like we were on the set of Game Of Thrones.

Hopped aboard a marshrutka that took us from Tbilisi, Georgia to Yerevan, Armenia. Immigration formalities at the border took an hour.

Booked accommodation for the first time through AirBnB. Stayed in a Yerevan apartment for a week. Cheaper than in any of the city's hostels and guesthouses.

Visited Armenia's Etchmiadzin Cathedral, the oldest state-built church in the world. On the same day we spent some quiet time at Khor Virap Monastery where hubby descended to the dungeon where
Saint Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for thirteen years. Thirteen!

Was left with a harrowing feeling when we left the Armenian Genocide Museum. And we were even more distraught when a cabbie charged us 3,000 dram (about $7) for a short ride back to town instead of 700 dram.

I was never able to pronounce Shnorhakalut’yun correctly (hubby never bothered trying). It means 'thank you' in Armenian. Even Armenians don't use it, instead they say merci. 

Flew to Nepal for it was the cheapest route out of Armenia and toward our home region. Checked in a hostel named End Of The Universe, and we were given a suite with a sweeping view of a Himalayan range. One out of the two mornings that we woke up to such vista, the clouds parted and gave us a peek at the peaks!

Spent four days just eating and watching videos in a guesthouse at Bhaktapur's UNESCO World Heritage Site Durbar Square. We also let Luna sit in a Nepalese pre-school class for two days. Oh how she loved it.

Where we are now...

Just arrived in Phuket yesterday and it looks like we'll be here for four weeks since my sister and hubby's bro and his wife will be flying in also on different dates this month. Currently on a pad thai and Thai pancake diet.

Who's going to be on the island the coming weeks? Raise your hand, and I'll pass you a Chang or Singha.

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Istanbul, Turkey: When The Dust Temporarily Cleared

[Warning: Graphic content]

The dust temporarily cleared when we flew out of Atatürk Airport early this morn. We're now more than a thousand kilometers away, shivering under a doona in a rented Tbilisi unit, yet my heart yearns for Turkey. And though my body's overly sore — beyond Efficascent Oil repair (yes I have a bottle in our first aid kit) — from a two-week spring fling with/mad dash around the country, I am still wishing the embassy gave my visa a few days more. 

Because yeah, we would have stayed longer even with the anti-government clashes that erupted in Istanbul.

War zone-ish. Photo from The Times Of Israel.

 Water cannons used to disperse the demonstrators. Photo from Mirror News.

Taksim Square. Blood or red-dyed water (from cannons) to mark protesters?. Photo from IntelliHub.

Yesterday, we warily roamed the streets in and around Sultanahmet Square. We noticed that the number of foreign tourists significantly declined. It was our last whole day in the city, we can't let it go to waste. Never mind the ongoing social unrest a few kilometers northeast and well, our aching legs. The plan was to drag our arses to the Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest permanent enclosed markets in the world, after checking out of the dilapidated Atlantis Hotel at midday then meet up with a fellow travel blogger late afternoon.

The former was a plan that didn't fall through, because unbeknownst to us, the bazaar's closed on Sundays (Sundays?!). So we resolved to buying a few knickknacks from shops surrounding it. After our last lunch in the country, which did not consist any form of lamb — because ermergehd we had too much of it, we strolled back to the hotel to grab our luggage and transferred to the charming Naz Wooden House.

There was barely time to lay our heads down on tempting beds for I received a Facebook message from Sabrina, the bubbly blogger behind Just One Way Ticket, saying she has accomplished all her errands and that she's ready for tea. Cause yah know in Turkey it's always time for tea.

Photo by Sabrina, taken from her flat's balcony in Taksim.

Sabrina and I were interviewed for a 2011 Couchsurfing video but we never met personally until that day. Her scenes were shot in Istanbul where she was couchsurfing/traveling that time. Ours (we were featured as a family) on the other hand were shot in Australia, where we were spending some time with relatives before continuing our round-the-world-trip.

Because we're both travel bloggers, we somehow found each other online early this year.

We fetched her from the hotel she's staying at for a five-day gig. She emerged from the lift looking like a ray of sunshine slicing through Istanbul's gloomy sky that afternoon. She just checked in that day, and came from her rented flat which sits in the area where clashes between protesters and Turkish police took place. I remember reading her Facebook status about being trapped in a Starbucks branch when the chaos began the night prior.

She witnessed the bedlam firsthand, while I, only saw a small parade of demonstrators along Kennedy Avenue. But we're both furious. If you've been following the news, you'd know about the fight for Taksim's Gezi Park (which will be turned into a commercial center). It's one of the few remaining green, open spaces in the city. There's a bigger story to tell which I do not know of, about what the Turkish Prime Minister and his ruling Justice and Development Party has or has not done for the country, but I find it difficult not to judge.

Will you do the same just to be heard? I certainly ain't got the cojones for this. Photo from IntelliHub.
Peaceful protesters were doused with tear gas and pepper spray, the canisters thrown straight at them. Water cannons were used to shoo disoriented people out of the park. The news never made it to Turkey's telly. I surfed the channels and only saw dubbed foreign films, dubbed cartoons (to Luna's delight), and cooking shows. I read somewhere that Miss Turkey was on too, and I uhm, regret not being able to catch that.

Also on Saturday, Facebook didn't load properly when accessed from Istanbul, because "they throttled the bandwidth to the bare minimum". At first I thought the internet connection of the 70€ room we were bunked in last Saturday had a wonky connection cause I cannot see photos on Facebook, and I let myself utter a slew of ugly curses (cause hello, 70€?). Then I read that TechCrunch article which made me question... Where's the freedom of speech?

It's a heavy matter to tackle. Sabrina and I did not to dwell on it. Like in any meetup of two nomadic people, we exchanged stories about where we've been and where we're going. In between sips of Turkish tea and bites of gozleme sprouted topics like visa hassles, cheap flights and Philippine's stunning beaches.

Amidst the mayhem, our last day in Turkey somehow ended light.
It was too short a time.

We ended our tea session just before nightfall. Sabrina walked us to Hagia Sophia where we bade farewell with a double beso. A shiny-happy ending to our whirlwind, fifteen-day visit. A kind of ending I am hoping for the Turkish fighting to save a park.

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