Photo Essay: The Monastery of Saint Catherine (El Monasterio De Santa Catalina), Arequipa, Peru

The silence was rather perturbing. Our daughter Luna must have felt the same, for she broke it the second we stepped in the deserted monastery. Her bawl traveled through alleys and bounced off multihued walls. The echoes greatly multiplied. A depiction of the property's vastness. Over twenty thousand-square-meter-vast, to be more accurate.

Hence it's called 'a city within a city'.

The Monastery of Saint Catherine (El Monasterio De Santa Catalina) in "White City" Arequipa was established in the 1500s. Its wealthy founder Doña María de Guzmán's social standing attracted women from upper class Spanish families to enter the novitiate here. A hefty dowry is paid for one's admission (the nuns' affluence can be determined by their belongings displayed in sleeping cells-turned-exhibit halls today). 

This fortune helped the monastery burgeon for years.

A stroll along an empty calle or through colonnades or around a courtyard is a journey back more than four hundred years in time. If novices paid a pricey dowry long ago to get in, tourists these days pay a reasonable 35 soles ($12).
 











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Nazca Lines, Peru (Or Those Lines That The Hubby Thought Were Crop Circles)

"But it's the Nazca Lines! How come you don't wanna see it?!", I was a bit embarrassed, quickly wiping my tears with the back of my hand so no one could notice. I imagined myself being a mistreated protagonist in a Mexicanovela, sans the big hair and off-shoulder peasant girl blouse. It was a chilly December afternoon in Mexico City's Colonia Santa María la Ribera and we were strolling toward the supermercado.

"I'm not freakin' traveling just to see crop circles!", hubby's voice was stern.

Aaand initiating facepalm in 3.. 2... 1.

He clearly didn't spend his younger years watching Space Sheriff Shaider.

The Tree. Can be seen from an observation tower off the The Pan-American Highway.  

Fast forward to January, on day 213 of our 2011-2012 round-the-world trip, this memory made me burst out laughing at the backseat while we were cruising the Pan-American Highway. Hubby probably wondered what it's about but I kept it to myself. We chose to hire a car and hang onto a guided tour's wing because Luna was still recovering from cough and colds — which she caught in Ica a few days prior just before we watched wildlife on Islas Ballestas and trudged on the beautifully bleak Paracas National Reserve.

The Hands. C'mon, they gotta be made by (or with the help of) aliens!  

Besides joining a group tour, the other two options to see the Nazca Lines are: (A) Take the collectivo from Nazca town and (B) Fly aboard a Cessna plane. The problem with option A is, it may take forever and a day to catch another collectivo or bus going back to town. With a sick 1 year 4 month-old Luna, this option evidently didn't sound appealing. Hitchhiking is relatively safe in the region but waiting for someone willing to pick you up may take ages too.

Mirador Observation Tower lets you see only three geoglyphs.  

As for option B, well... Aside from being pricey, a Google search of the keywords "Cessna flight Nazca lines" will lead you to an article about tourists being killed in a plane crash. Sure accidents seem rare, but with a toddler we simply couldn't take the risk. So the tour that we arranged with the help of our guesthouse was our best option.

Guide-slash-driver told the fam to pose like so along the Pan-American Highway even with a bus hurtling towards us from behind and the front!

Unfortunately, the tour has its disadvantages too. Compared to taking public transport, booking a tour meant shelling out more dibs, especially cause we weren't able find someone else to share the car with. Also, the Mirador Observation Platform only lets visitors see three geoglyphs. Just so you know, the UNESCO World Heritage Site encompasses almost 500 square kilometers of the Nazca Desert. So yeah, flying is your only way to see the whole shebang. Unless a complex network of zip-lines are built over 'em. Okay, that's a silly joke. Sorry for even putting the idea into the universe.

Looking like a tribal version of Family Stickers (yah know, those stick figures you see on cars) to me.  

The drive from Nazca town to Mirador Observation Tower took about half an hour. A climb up the tower costs just 1 Peruvian nuevo sol and should be an easy task unless one has a serious case of acrophobia. The three geoglyphs that can be seen from the tower are The Hands, The Tree, and The Lizard (or sometimes called The Reptile). The Pan-American highway, the world's longest "motorable road" according to Guinness World Records (travels through 18 countries in the Americas), cuts through the tail of The Poor Lizard.

Maria Reiche's old home turned into a museum.  

I can imagine how mind-boggling the lines are from a plane. From the observation tower however, the lines did not blow us away perhaps because — save for the uber long straight lines — the shallow trenches (like, 10-15 cm shallow) seemed uncomplicated to make. The lines are formed by removing rust-colored rocks on the surface of the desert to reveal a much lighter shade of earth. And that's... Basically it. How it lasted for more than a thousand years (possibly longer), Mother Nature's responsible for that. These lines have been preserved for such time because it's practically windless in this arid plateau. 

Ol' Kombi at Maria Reiche's Museum.

And so what are the Nazca Lines for? Now that's a mystery. Archaeologists, anthropologists and a lot of other ists tried to interpret the lines. One of which is Maria Reiche, a German mathematician and archaeologist who dedicated almost half of her life studying and fighting to preserve them. After visiting two observation towers (the second one's a bit meh), we were taken to her old home that now serves as a museum. Some of her work tools, maps, didactic (dida-huwat?!) scale models, photos are on display. And a wax figure of her sitting behind — presumably her old desk — which totally gave me goosies. She's buried in the garden, beside her sister Renata.

A look out hill where long lines/trenches that don't form figures can be seen.
If you think I'll be discussing about the different theories behind the Nazca Lines, well, I'm telling you I'd rather decipher this Georgian kids' show Luna's watching (we're currently in Tbilisi, Georgia). Or I'll start talking about aliens. If you're feeling really slothful to look it up, to put it simply, most of the theories are related to astronomy. And I believe none of which weighs heavier than the other.

It's an open case 'til this very day.

"Time Space Warp, ngayon din!"  

The Nazca Lines have certainly made a lot of ists scratch their heads. But yo, how the hubby initially thought that those lines are crop circles... That's a mystery of life.


Round-The-World 2011-2012, Peru Leg:

Paracas National Reserve, Peru: Images Of A Desolate Beauty
Islas Ballestas, Paracas,Peru: Penguins In The Wild
Huaca Pucllana, Lima, Peru: The Ruins And The Red Balloon
El Zaguan B&B, Lima, Peru

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Paracas National Reserve, Peru: Images Of A Desolate Beauty

Just beautifully bleak. From where we were standing, the blanket of golden sands seemed endless. The balmy breeze that swept past every so often gave this tropical desert a less unforgiving aura. It was day 211 of our round-the-world trip, and we were on the second half of our Paracas tour. Earlier that day we watched wildlife on Islas Ballestas. After witnessing penguins roam freely for the first time, I can hardly wait to see what else this UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site has to offer.

"Vámonos!", our tour guide called out for nth time. We descended the balcony stairs of the museum and trudged toward our three-bus convoy. All our tourmates were already waiting on board. I guess, as the only non-Spanish speaking members of the group, we were the only ones who needed all that reading.

The rest of the afternoon didn't need much translation. The hubby and I were too busy gawking anyway.

Museum within the reserve. A film showing provides brief info about Paracas, its landscape and culture.

She turned sixteen months that day.

Turquoise splendor.   

Paracas National Reserve is the oldest marine reserve in Peru and is one of the most uncommon ecosystems in the world.

     La Catedral arch, which obviously ain't an arch anymore. Sadly destroyed by an earthquake in 2007.   Playa Rojo or Red Beach. Sand from pulverized porphyry rocks.
 Trip's Nitty Gritty:

1. How to get there: Pisco is easily reached via public bus from Lima. From Pisco, you could take a taxi from the terminal to Paracas town. The more expensive buses can take passengers all they way to Paracas, make sure you reserve a ticket in advance. Check Cruz Del Sur or Oltursa.

Whole trip from Lima to Paracas takes about four hours.

2. Booking a tour. Tour operators are aplenty in both Pisco and Paracas. Tours are more expensive in Pisco mainly because it includes a bus ride to Paracas town and back. Pisco was heavily damaged by an earthquake and establishments are still being rebuilt. Hence, tourists find the city unattractive. Paracas may be a better choice to stay for a night, but since the whole town thrives on tourism, everything's overpriced.

You may also hire a car if you wish to set off at your own pace. Ask hostels/hotels for such service. 

3. Must bring sunscreen and water. If you're on a group tour, you'll be taken to Playa Lagunillas for a late lunch. You're free to choose which restaurant you'd like to dine in. Bring snacks if you don't intend pay for overpriced meals. Bring a sarong too so you can lay down on the sand and watch Peruvian pelicans fly about.


Round-The-World 2011-2012, Peru Leg:

Islas Ballestas, Paracas,Peru: Penguins In The Wild
Huaca Pucllana, Lima, Peru: The Ruins And The Red Balloon
El Zaguan B&B, Lima, Peru


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2012 Year-Ender/World-Ender

Ahhh... 2012.

You are an ebullient homage to wanderlust. Frankly, I am quite obsessed with your ruffled months. In fact it's almost midnight and amid that end-of-the-world hullabaloo, here I am fondly sewing a patchwork of idyllic imagery to commemorate your flamboyance and purport. Now this may seem like a pathetic way of exiting the universe, but at least I dove in a vibrant flashback during my last minutes on earth. I get to utilize fancy words too.

Nope. I'm not drunk.

Shoot for Travel Blogging Calendar 2013. Shout out to the photographer, fellow Pinay travel blogger Claire of Lakwatsera De Primera. Not the actual photo on the calendar.

Speaking of dying, just last week an aunt of mine told me, "Dami mo nang napuntahan, pwede ka na mamatay." (You've been to so many places, you can die anytime now.).

"Eh... I'd like to see more. A lot more." I said. Then she went, "Hinde, pwede ka na mamatay!" (Nah, you can die anytime/now).  I thought to myself, if the planet doesn't blow up and claim my life, her statement probably will.

But yeah, I got her point. And 2012 is a testament to that. See for yourself how the universe spoiled us to bits this year.

1. Mexico

Clockwise from top left: 1. New Year's Eve dinner, mole! 2. Palenque Ruins. 3. A cenote (sinkhole) in Cancun. 4. Chichen Itza without the hubby and baby doll.

2. Peru 

Clockwise from top left: Watching penguins in the wild, Islas Ballestas. 2. Red Beach in Paracas National Reserve. 3. Machu Picchu. 4. The Tree, Nazca Lines.

3. Brazil 
 

Clockwise from top left: 1. Cristo Redentor. 2. Carnival at the Sambadrome. 3. The hubby bought his first pair of Havaianas (Luna's first pair too)! 4. Sexy Ipanema Beach.

4. Morocco 

Clockwise from top left: 1. Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca. 2. Ancient Roman City Volubilis. 3. Sahara Desert. 4. Ait Benhaddou, Ouarzazate.

5. Vietnam 

Clockwise from top left: 1. Street art somewhere in Pham Ngu Lao District, Ho Chi Minh. 2. Pho! 3. After wriggling through the tunnels of Củ Chi. 4. Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica.

6. Mongolia 

Clockwise from top left: 1. Tsagaan Suvraga, Gobi Desert. 2. Two kilometer trek to Yolyn Am. 3. Inside our Couchsurfing host's ger in Ulaanbaatar. 4. Khongoryn Els Sand Dunes.

7. Russia
 

Clockwise from top left: 1. Aboard the Trans-Siberian train, skirting the world's oldest lake. 2. Luna dons her first down jacket. 3. Nizhny Novgorod. 4. St. Basil's Cathedral, Moscow.

8. Philippines

Clockwise from top left: 1. Dasol, Pangasinan. 2. Liwliwa, Zambales. 3. Gubat, Sorsogon for the Book Sharing Project. 4. Tondol Beach, Anda, Pangasinan.

9. Singapore 

Clockwise from top left: 1. With Singapore-based Filipino bloggers. 2. Ze sister's birthday. 3. Second overseas trip with the 'rents. 4. Harry Potter Exhibit.

10. Australia

Clockwise from top left: 1. Dee Why Beach. 2. Luna's play date with Justice and Mayor. 3. Meet up with Pinay travel bloggers. 4. Catching up with Persian in-laws.

11. Indonesia

Clockwise from top left: 1. Sanur Beach. 2. Luna tramping on an Ubud rice field. 3. Fourth anniversary of togetherness, Bali's Uluwatu temple. 4. First time checking in a boutique hotel.

12. East Timor

 Clockwise from top left: 1. Maubara Fort. 2. Third year wedding anniversary spent volunteering for Academy of Swimming Education East Timor. 3. Dollar Beach, Manatuto. 4. Cristo Rei, Dili.

And then some. 

Paying it forward. Left: Participated in the Book Sharing Project for the benefit of Rizal Elementary School in Gubat, Sorsogon. Right: Posed for the Travel Blogging Calendar 2013. Sales of the calendars will be donated to Mitrata Nepal and VSO Bahaginan. Purchase one now! Visit http://www.travelbloggingcalendar.com/
So do you think I can die any time now (Gulp.)?  How was your 2012, fellow travel junkie?
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Islas Ballestas, Paracas, Peru: Penguins In The Wild

Paracas' teensy port was bedlam, early Wednesday morn. Rows and rows of tourists, craning their necks to see which queue boards next, were uncontestably antsy. So was our toddler Luna. Poor thing was recovering from a fever. It was day 211 of our round-the-world trip, and she just turned sixteen months. Such milestone we were to celebrate by watching wildlife on Islas Ballestas, in the Ica Region of south Peru.

Humboldt penguins and Peruvian pelicans blending into the background.
At quarter past nine, our guia (guide) finally motioned for us to come forward. It was our turn to board. The piloto instructed hubby and me, the only parents lugging a toddler amongst the group, to choose a seat in front. Thankfully the place we were eyeing. We certainly didn't want Luna to bathe in splashes of cold sea water at the back of the boat.

Our Islas Ballestas ride.
We quickly put on our life vests and plopped on our seat. The sun's rays grew fierce (A bit of pre-trip reading warned us about the roofless speedboats hence our slathering of dollops of sunscreen.), but groggy Luna managed to doze off. Our boat thrummed to life as soon as everyone piled in. It was our guia's cue to begin his lecture, which was delivered in Spanish and English. The sea was fairly calm, and the only bumps we endured were caused by slices of waves from other speedboats that overtook us.

The El Candelabro.
The engine was switched off when we drifted near the El Candelabro, a 420-foot geoglyph etched into a cliff on the Paracas peninsula. Its history and purpose still unknown. Not much to discuss there obviously so we pushed on after two minutes, to the dismay of our trigger happy Spanish speaking tourmates.

Sea lions lazing on pebble beach.
It took a little over half an hour to get to Islas Ballestas. We first caught sight of sea lions lazing on the pebble beach. They seemed unmindful of our presence. Our guia even claims that a few of them sometimes swim alongside the boats. Uhm, doesn't sound safe for show off seals, don't you think?

Nature's chorale, serenading our morn.
Because the rocky islands of Islas Ballestas is protected, boats aren't allowed to dock. We merely did sightseeing from a safe distance. Besides there's too much guano spread around the islands. Guano, in case you don't know, is seabird and seal dung, and is extracted as fertilizer and ingredient for gunpowder since the 1840s. Imagine trampling on squishy excrement as part of your itinerary, not appealing ei? Prolly an affront to your senses, but this shiz is like, a gargantuan business for Peruvians.

Thousands of birds hanging out. Can you see them?
So what attracts sea lions and different bird species to these offshore islands? The Humboldt Current (named after naturalist Alexander von Humboldt) flowing through the area pulls up nutrient-rich water from the ocean floor to the ocean's surface which brings about an ideal feeding zone for small fishes. Thereupon... (Yawn)... Beckons sea lions and sea birds that feed on them.

Spot the sea lion.
Did I just bore you there? Oh peaking of Humboldt, I secretly wept when I finally saw the Humboldt penguins (This crybaby moment may not be new to you if you've read what happened in Macau's Giant Panda Pavilion.). It was my first time to actually see penguins, and I'm quite proud to say that I saw them in the wild. No zoo can can beat that experience.

Watch the wildlife, baby doll. Stop poking other kids!
After two hours, we were back in Paracas' port. The trip to the so-called "poor man's Galapagos" was nothing short of amazing. Well worth the 35 soles (about $14) that we paid each. And I can hardly wait to see the real Galapagos, perhaps when I'm a poor man no more.


Round-The-World 2012, Peru Leg:

Huaca Pucllana, Lima, Peru: The Ruins And The Red Balloon
El Zaguan B&B, Lima, Peru

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Round-The-World Vagabonding: Our Ten Fave Temporal "Homes"

A solar-powered guest studio in the middle of the forest, an artist's cabin in a trailer park by the beach, and a Moroccan riad with an unobstructive view of a UNESCO World Heritage listed ksar... These are a few of our awesome accommodations during our 280-day round-the-world vagabonding. One night, one week, one month. It didn't matter how long each stay was. We converted every hotel, hostel, Couchsurfer's house, bed and brekkie, into our temporary home any way we could.

Home, after all, is where the heart is. Not where our worldly possessions are gathered and displayed to collect dust.

I couldn't count how many places we checked in and out of, to tell you the truth. But I could certainly point out our top ten fave "homes". So which are these and why they made it to the list?

1. Solar-powered guest studio in the middle of Mullumbimby's forest, New South Wales, Australia. It's owned by a Couchsurfer who lives in a bigger, wooden house just fifty meters from the studio. Our ol' beat up, borrowed car named "Gumby" puffed its ascent through narrow muddy road to get there. Gumby was praised by our host as we drove in her property, "The little car made it!".


In this studio, we were able to experience living off solar power and rain water for the first time with our baby Luna. Cost: Family travel stories shared over candle-lit dinner + dishwashing work.

2. An artist's cabin in a trailer park by Tallow Beach. Suffolk Park, New South Wales, Australia. Luckily found the owner's ad online. Cabin is filled with paintings, art books, meditation CDs, and a full kitchen with bottles of my fave Mediterranean spices. It has a front porch ideal for uhm, spacing out.


Australian water dragons lurk around, however. Which made raking dead leaves in the backyard an annoying task. Cost: AU $230 a week. Better value than staying in a hostel.

3. Hotel Sierra (Which I think is now named Hyatt House), an "extended stay hotel" located in the heart of Silicon Valley's Golden Triangle. We felt like high rollers for a month in this one. Serviced by cheery Mexican housekeeping ladies who chitchatted with me whenever they're in our room. Hotel's American brekkie buffet's got so much choices (Wednesday's bacon day!).


Celebrated our second wedding anniversary here. Cost: Free. Company provided, thank goodness.

4. Jade Guesthouse, Colonia Santa María la Ribera, Mexico. Guesthouse owned by a lovely French family. The parents once lived and worked in the Philippines. Only two beautifully decorated rooms are rented out, in a separate building at the courtyard. There's no wall between the bedroom and the bathroom. Perfect for honeymooners.


Kitchen is on a rooftop that does not have... (Gasp!)... Railing. Cost: M$330 per night on weekdays, M$350 on weekends.

5. Hotel Regional, Palenque, Mexico. Although we're not too pleased with their jungle-themed rooms, we're huge fans of the hostel's owners. The Mexican owners who speak limited English, invited us to the New Year's Party they organized for their workers. We felt how the staff loves them back.


They didn't love us the same, unfortunately. We were charged more than the published rate. Maybe cause of the toddler? Cost: M$350

6. Hotel Zaguan B&B, Lima, Peru. Just a few blocks away from the center. Friendly receptionist (The smiliest guy I ever met!), good breakfast. Coffee all day.


The room has an adjacent pocket garden and roofed porch. Cost: US $40

7. Hostal Inti Wasi, Cusco, Peru. A colonial house built in the late 16th century that has been restored. Our room was surprisingly spacious, and we got a balcony with a view of the cathedral in Plaza de Armas.


Receptionist served us coca tea when we arrived to help prevent altitude sickness. A warm welcome after a six-hour bus journey from Puno, where Lake Titicaca is located. Cost: 145 Peruvian soles.

8. Pousada Tatuapura, Praia Do Forte, Brazil. Most posh (And prettiest!) resort we stayed in. Was forced to reserve a room here cause the cheaper ones were all booked out for the carnival. There's a pool, jacuzzi, and a children's room full of toys.


Did not extend our two-night stay. Cost: Would rather forget.

9. Our Moroccan-Rastafarian Couchsurfing host's apartment in suburban Sale, Morocco. His humble abode decorated with incense sticks, woven rugs, plush pillows, and Tibetan flags radiates with good vibes. Our host taught me how to prepare quick and cheap Moroccan meals. He and hubby also strummed House of the Rising Sun after dinner on our first night.


The long-ish travel from Rabat's city center was worth it. Cost: Luna's smiles and hugs. Host loved her!

10. La Fibule d'Or, Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco. Favoritest of them all! A riad with an unobstructive view of UNESCO World Heritage Site Ait Ben Haddou which is a ksar that sits on the old Sahara-Marrakech caravan route. The owner of the auberge starred in some films shot here.


Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace. Cost: US $28 for a room with ensuite bath. Plus window's got a view of the ksar.

How about you fellow travel junkie? Where is your fave temporal home?

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